Sunday, December 6, 2020

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany

It is possible to see the whirring cranes of the famous port in the distance, perched on the edge of the Hamburg docks, feet dangling over the river Elbe below.

Almost entirely automated, the facilities are considered to be some of the industry's most innovative.

The site has been the lifeblood of the city for decades, serving as a gateway to the world.

Even after considerable investment, however the port is still falling behind those of Rotterdam and Antwerp, with more than 100 kilometers of land restricting access to the very largest ships.

In response, over the past few years, the city has been trying to reposition itself, expanding its tourism industry.

The building is part of a larger initiative by local authorities to diversify away from maritime trade, while the new Elbphilharmonie concert hall has been hitting the headlines.

These efforts have been fruitful to a large degree, with the number of overnight stays rising by 87 per cent in the decade to 2017.

About 6.8 million tourists spent 13.8 million nights at 396 commercial accommodation companies in Hamburg last year with an average stay of two days.

Over the past decade, global demand has increased by 124 per cent, with almost a quarter of arriving guests now traveling internationally.

With Hamburg claiming to trail only London and New York in terms of the variety on offer, tourists have long come to the theater.

While that may be a little over ambitious, it is impossible to ignore the hundreds of productions on offer on large and small stages walking the streets of the city.

More recently, however it was the culinary scene that attracted attention, with something of a reputation as a foodie paradise being established by the city.

The North German city has been working hard to recalibrate the experiences of cooking in the country in the way it took Britain years to shed its reputation for terrible cuisine.

Throughout the region, there are hundreds of restaurants, offering everything from traditional lobscouse, eel soup and kümmel schnaps to more modern European and foreign dishes.

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany
The concert hall of the Elbphilharmonie rejuvenated tourism in Hamburg

Hamburg is strung along the river, like many towns, with richness concentrated in the west and the more artistic groups expanding eastward.

As a consequence, in the poorest parts of town, some of the most exciting restaurants can be found.

A good example is Dulf's Burger, which serves buns piled five high with burgers to a mix of locals and visitors.

The restaurant is not afraid to serve its meat pink and bloody, while the drinks definitely add to the friendly atmosphere, packed early on a weekday afternoon - always a positive sign.

Being a port area, fish is a big part of the local diet, obviously.

In a casual space, Underdocks is just around the corner, serving blackfish rolls, ceviche and black tiger tacos.

Patrons enjoy a short lunch or a long afternoon catch-up with friends under the watchful eyes of a surprisingly hip-looking sea captain painted on the wall.

A much more discerning palate caters to the surrounding Karo Fisch.

Hamburg has always taken pride in its radicalism and to this day, remains a hotbed of political activism.

At the same time, however it is considered to be one of Germany's richest cities, home to big offices for Airbus, Lufthansa and mail-order giant Otto.

At Karo Fisch, where well-heeled businessmen can be seen elbow-to-elbow with young activists, these two worlds clash.

The latter also includes the Feldstrasse Bunker, a massive WWII flak tower that, depending on who you ask, is either in the process of being converted into a five-star hotel or community garden.

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany
A staple of the Hamburg diet, fish is

The Street Food Session is held every Thursday at Spielbudenplatz.

Hungry travelers can walk through 20 or so food trucks that rotate on a weekly basis, or sit in one of the area's more permanent cocktail bars.

I saw everything from Belgian waffles, paella from Spain and Mexican burritos to the offering of German fish soup, while the Clouds Heaven's Bar & Kitchen, perched on top of the nearby skyscraper, once you've had your fill, offers a great escape.

Now of course, street food trucks like this can be seen almost everywhere but the surrounding St Pauli area is what makes Hamburg worth a visit.

Hamburg has a long and salacious history as a port, and this tradition lasts.

Visitors will find the true soul of the city here, concentrating on the Reeperbahn, basically a mile-long stretch of dive bars, brothels, clubs and cheap restaurants, and a visit is important for anyone passing through.

Beatles-Platz is at one end, a decorated square paying homage to the period the famous band spent in Hamburg honing their art.

A little dicey at night, the region is either a gritty realization of all that makes the city amazing, or, depending on temperament, completely frightening.

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany
Fine dining on the Reeperbahn at Spielbudenplatz

As a wealthy city of course, Hamburg also has many luxurious fine dining establishments, including the Oberhafen-Kantine.

The eatery is a taste of typical Hamburg, located in a tiny cottage that looms towards you like the Tower of Pisa.

Local chef Anita Haendel has been welcoming guests here with her home cooking for decades.

Before Tim Seidel and Sebastian Libbert agreed to take over and revive the original recipes, several new incarnations were tried for the building after her death.

Today, that implies that everything is homemade and freshly cooked, with hand pressed meatballs and freshly chopped cabbages, while the drinks are abundant, a real kooky place away from the beaten track.

With rising sea levels, Hamburg is actually in the midst of upgrading its defenses.

Throughout the town centre, new walls are being constructed, providing new walks for visitors to enjoy at the same time.

Tasquinha Galego, located in a historic tower, is at the core of the development.

It's something of an outlier for the region, serving traditional Portuguese cuisine, but well worth checking out.

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany
The popular fish market is the highlight of every Hamburg journey.

Now without a visit to the popular fish market, any visit to Hamburg would not be complete.

The century old building is a perfect place to spend Sunday morning, depending on whether you've been up all night or are making an early start.

Revellers, eagle-eyed shoppers, vendors and everyone in between (during my tour, I saw at least one bride in her wedding gown) come together in what is basically a massive after-party for the entire city.

There are a few visitors taking photos, but it's mostly those still out celebrating-the queues are similar in length for coffee and beer.

With rock and jazz music, live bands keep spirits up, while those seeking sustenance can pick up hearty fish sandwiches for the ride home after a night of excess.

Keep an eye out too for Franzbrötchen, a thin, sweet, cinnamon-baked pastry.

It is a German take on the classic French dish, supposedly created when French troops under Napoleon captured Hamburg in the early seventeenth century and demanded croissants.

It has become a symbol of the region, whatever the true story of its origins.

The Fish Market is the best place to end every trip to Hamburg, with spectacular views around the harbour.

Investigated by Breaking Travel News: Hamburg, Germany

More Info

Hamburg is one of the most beautiful cities in Germany, with its flair and maritime charm.

The port city on the Elbe offers its tourists a pure and easy city life, with special shopping, cultural and natural experiences.

Find out more on the website of the official German National Tourist Board.

For Chris O'Toole

Best place to find more about bor travel is TripNumbers.com

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